We just got home last evening after a final little adventure in the southwest of Ireland, specifically in a place called Dingle. [actually, this was partially written a week ago but after my computer crashing and losing the majority of the post, I just couldn't bear re-writing the whole thing again til now] Claimed as one of the most picturesque spots in all of Ireland, we weren't quiet sure of this as when we arrived on Saturday night as a huge storm was rolling in and the wind and rain shook the rafters.
We had a nice drive down, with intermittent bursts of sun and showers, creating dramatic vistas along the way. We stopped in Limerick for lunch and did a quick driving loop around the town. Once into Dingle, we checked into Heaton's Guesthouse, run by the Heaton family. The son, David, was holding down the fort while the rest of the family was in the States.
That evening we ate some extremely yummy dinner at the Half Door, a seafood restaurant which was in this charming old building with low ceilings and chock-a-block with Christmas decorations. We had some of the best scallops ever which just melted in your mouth with barely chewing. After a big dinner and the blustery evening we retired to our lovely little room overlooking Dingle Harbor. Our room had a gorgeous Jacuzzi tub so I took a lovely long bubble-bath before a great night sleep.
The wind blew beyond belief that evening and we were happy to be snug in bed, waking to some dramatic sky, still overcast with heavy gray clouds. After a yummy breakfast, also cooked by David, we were off to Killarney and Muckross House. On our drive along the south coast of the Dingle Peninsula, we were able to witness the gigantic waves and swells in Dingle Bay, just before Inch Point, from the progressing storm.
We took some snaps of the impressive show, but all the shades gray do not turn out so well on film, which is a bit disappointing.
Muckross House, our destination for the day, is just south of Killarney. First built in the in 1840s as a hunting "lodge", this residence is a mansion by any standards, yet electricity did not come to the entire area till the 1960s! We took a guided tour of the house, had lunch at their cafe and purchased a pretty vase made at their traditional pottery workshop.
We proceeded south on a scenic drive called the "Ring of Kerry" and really enjoyed the passing bursts of sun which moved quickly across the vistas. Stopping frequently to dash off a few pictures, we didn't make it very far till we had to turn around at Sneem (isn't that a great name!) and start back through the valley with the striking Macgillycuddy's Reeks on our left.
A view from the Upper Lakes of Lough Leane
A view of the Upper Lakes near Moll's Gap
The weather for the day was actually not too bad with only a few passing showers, but the wind still continued to blow quite strongly. On our drive home, however, it took a turn for the worse and we actually went through a bout of hail and surges of pouring rain. The drive, along these tiny Irish road, in the dark, with a vast cliff on your left, was quite the adventure!
That evening we relaxed at the Chart House for dinner (no relation to the American chain). This was another delightful restaurant and just a wee bit more elegant than the previous evening with a very charming French host. He was the only one working in the dining room that evening, but he was ever so efficient. It was also very cute, when Reeves responded to him in French a couple times, he was so flustered he didn't know how to respond - guess the locals and the various American tourists don't usually know much French! [as a side note in regards to travelling Americans, we giggled a bit at another couple who, having breakfast at the hotel, the wife asked what "porridge" and "kippers" were - now I know I am not the most sophisticated traveller out there, but how sheltered of a life do you lead to not know these foods, at least on a general category level?]I dined that evening on the most amazing lamb which had a wonderfully wild flavor and Reeves plaice was incredibly delicate and crumbly.
Our last day we woke to filtered sunshine with the sunrise streaking through the clouds just over hills on Dingle Harbor. Our itinerary for the day was to drive the Dingle Peninsula and the weather didn't disappoint. With the storm now having passed through, it was a glorious day - mild, sunny and a perfect backdrop to see this picturesque country.
Near Fahan on the Dingle Pen.
Someone looking for a handout
A view toward Garraun Pt from near Slea Head
We drove clockwise around the Peninsula, taking a multitude of pictures (gotta love digital) and also stopped by the Gallarus Oratory, an 8th or 9th Century stone chapel, one of the oldest existing of its kind.
The Gallarus Oratory
Out here on the edge of the world it seems, was also a retail experience, the pottery studio of the famous Louis Mulcahy. They have a shop in Dublin, but I prefer to purchase things from "the source" so we bought four of the most lovely mugs and a small milk pot from their Clogher workshop. I would love to have one of their 2-3 foot high vases, but it is a little too big without know where it is going to go.
Our drive took us back trough Dingle again and then an uneventful drive home, which is always good. It was quite a bit of driving for three days, but we really saw a goodly portion of the Southwest of Ireland and will miss this gorgeous country!